Sophisticated Spanish fare can be a tricky game. Too earthy and rustic, and it can seem disappointingly primitive for a well-heeled urban crowd. On the other hand, too polished and evolved, and one is left yearning for a more basic provincial intensity. Patria Toronto nimbly skips along this tightrope, with seriously authentic Catalonian delights and a most-seriously hand-crocheted art wall (more on that later).

Prioritizing simplicity and authenticity over distracting attempts at innovation, Patria’s menu celebrates tapas’ traditional greatest hits, with a joyful Pan Con Tomate (fresh-baked bread, tomato and olive oil, which indeed are simple ingredients, but executed to sultry, sun-kissed perfection). Another highlight is the Pulpo a la Gallega (Spanish octopus, served on fingerling potatoes and doused in olive oil and paprika).

Launched in 2013 by Hanif Harji and Charles Khabouth, the pair spent months researching and traveling Spain to craft the menu, and the attention to detail is also apparent in the wine list – many of the Spanish wines on offer are imported directly and cannot be found elsewhere in Canada.

Now about that wall… Framing one side of a sweeping staircase and mezzanine, this spectacular art installation evokes traditional European handcraft and baroque opulence, and forms the heart and soul of the elegantly dark interior. Designed by Marlo Onilla of Biography, I’m told it took 485 hours to complete and contains 17,109 stitches, which you may wish to contemplate as you munch on the (perhaps less exhaustingly, but equally well-presented) churros.

http://patriatoronto.com/

Patria Toronto
478 King Street West, Toronto, ON M5V1L7, Canada
+1 416 367 0505

Benedikt is Melting Butter’s NYC-based design editor. He’s also a freelance architect, designer and writer with work that’s grounded in a strong multi-disciplinary focus, encompassing architecture, interiors, product design, curation and visual communication. Right now, Benedikt’s creative projects include an illustrated book, a site-specific art installation in the Manhattan streetscape, and several ongoing creative collaborations.

(All photos courtesy of Patria Toronto)

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